With regard to the white blouse and skirt (without ribbons)
That would be New Mexico, where one Americano noted that the women were running around with just skirts over their underthings, and subsequently making judgements about their morals.
In California in the early 1800s, it may be that such clothing was worn by women working the ranches, but it's less likely the skirts would be ribboned or the chemises as embroidered as those we associate commonly with Mexican dress, which are the dance costumes of folkloric dancers. However, Dana does point out that Mexican women do love ornamentation, so I'll be on the lookout for other first person accounts of the dress of Mexican women of that era.
One thing most museum costumers insist on is no calico. Now, having to move products overland in a trade route that was several years long in the 1700s, I can see New Mexico Spanish Colonial museums saying "no calico" Calico would have likely come in by rail. But California's shorter history as well as the numerous ports would have made calico a distinct possibility (something I need to correct in my own interpretation)
One problem with deciding on costuming for living history museums is that we don't always have a good amount of preserved attire to determine what was worn, and paintings often depicted people in their finest, especially the women. What we are left with are written accounts, and when going through those, we have to consider who's doing the writing, and which people that person has encountered as well as the conditions of the encounter. Coming off a ship and going to a ball in Monterey one would have to expect a totally different type of clothing worn than day to day attire, just as women today would be unlikely to wear their baggy athleasure-wear out clubbing.
I have recently begun reading Two Years Before the Mast, by Richard Henry Dana, which is a book of his memoires trading on the California Coast in 1834-1836. Since this corresponds so well to the time period of Gen Vallejo's rancho in Petaluma, I was very happy to come across chapters 12 and 13, which describes in some detail both male and female attire in California.
It's important to note that Dana describes Californians as "an idle, thriftless people, and can make nothing for themselves" He implies that the attire is all imported, and that there is no issue with overpaying for goods (he mentions 3 times the going rate in Boston).
One thing Dana points out is that "among the Mexicans, there is no working class (the Indians being practically serfs and doing all the hard work) and every rich man looks like a grandee, and every poor scamp like a broken down gentleman." This sounds a little narrow, and I'm curious as to what other people from the period have written on the subject.
In chapter 12, men's attire is described as:
a broad brimmed hat, usually of a black or dark brown color, with a gilt or figured band round the crown, and lined under the rim with silk; a short jacket of silk, or figured calico (the European skirted body coat is never worn); the shirt open in the neck, rich waistcoat, if any; pantaloons open at the side below the knee, laced with gilt, usually of velveteen or broadcloth; or else breaches with white stockings. They were the deer-skin shoe, which is of a dark brown color, and (being made by Indians) usually a great deal ornamented. They have no suspenders, but always wear a sash around the waist, which is generally red, and varying in quality with the means of the wearer. Add to this the never-failing poncho, or the serapa, and you have the dress of the Californian. This last garment is always a mark of the rank and wealth of the owner. The gente de razon, or better sort of people, wear cloaks of black or dark blue broadcloth, which as much velvet and trimmings as may be, and from this they go down to the blanket of the Indian, the middle classes wearing a poncho, something like a large square cloth, with a hole in the middle for the head to go through. this is often as coarse as a blanket, but being beautifully woven with various colors.In chapter 13, women's attire is described:
The women wore gowns of various texture, -- silks, crepe, calicoes, &c, -- made in the European style, except that the sleeves were short, leaving the arm bare, and that they were loose about the waist, corsets not being in use. They wore shoes of kid or satin, sashes or belts of bright colors, and almost always a necklace and ear-rings. Bonnets they had none.
...They wear their hair (which is almost invariably black or very dark brown) long int heir necks, sometimes loose, and sometimes in long braids; though the married women often do it up on a high comb. Their only protection against sun and weather is a large mantle which they put over their heads, drawing it close around their faces, when they go out of doors, which is generally only in pleasant weather. When in the house, or sitting out in front of it, they usually wear a small scarf or neckerchief of a rich pattern. a band, also, about the top of the head, with a cross, star, or other ornament in front, is common.
It's of note that the peineta (high comb) is an early to mid 19th century Spanish fashion.
a further note on the book Two Years Before the Mast:
I am not a fan of books about traveling the sea. The first 11 chapters of the book have been agonizing for me to read. I first started reading the book because it was recommended to me by a guest at Petaluma Adobe SHP, while I was giving him a tour, since it describes the hide and tallow trade in California at the time the rancho was in operation, supplying that very trade.
I have not yet finished the book, but these most recent chapters, describing the character, dress, and class structure in California at the time, have been extremely interesting to me, and this may well not be the last post I put together related to information from the book.
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